Roger Dubuis Watches: History, Models and What to Check Before You Buy
Roger Dubuis makes bold Swiss watches with open dials, big cases, and movements that carry the Geneva Seal. They are worth a look if you want something you will not see on every wrist. They are not the pick if you want the safest resale value. This guide covers the brand’s history, the main collections, how it compares to Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet, and five checks to run before you buy. If you want to see what is available now, browse our Roger Dubuis watches in stock.
Are Roger Dubuis watches worth it?
Yes, for the right buyer. Here is the short version.
- Best for: buyers who want a loud, artistic watch with real mechanical work inside.
- Strengths: a striking design, skeleton dials, and a Geneva Seal on the movement.
- Watch out for: resale. Roger Dubuis pieces often trade below retail on the pre-owned market, so buy for love first.
- Smart move: buy pre-owned, with a condition report and a warranty, so you skip the steepest first-owner drop.
Where Roger Dubuis came from
Roger Dubuis was founded in Geneva in 1995 by watchmaker Roger Dubuis and businessman Carlos Dias. Dubuis had spent years in the trade, including time at Patek Philippe, before he started his own house. The goal was simple: build complex mechanical watches that looked nothing like the old guard.
The Excalibur line arrived in 2002 and became the face of the brand. Its name comes from the sword in the King Arthur legend, and the design leans into that story with sharp lines and a medieval edge. In the years after, the company joined the Richemont group, which also owns Cartier and Vacheron Constantin. That gave it the funding to build its own manufacture in Geneva.
What makes the watches different
Three things set Roger Dubuis apart from most Swiss brands.
1. The Geneva Seal. The Geneva Seal is a quality mark for watches made and finished in the canton of Geneva. It covers the movement’s build and hand finishing. The brand says its mechanical movements carry the seal, which is rare at this size of production.
2. Skeleton dials. A skeleton watch cuts away the dial so you can see the movement. On a Roger Dubuis, the bridges and plates are shaped into part of the design, not just cut out. If you like this look, Hublot is another brand worth comparing.
3. Big, bold cases. Cases run from about 36 mm to 49 mm across the range, and many are made of rose gold, titanium, or carbon. They wear large, so try one on before you commit.
The collections that matter most
You do not need to learn every model. Start with these three.
| Collection | What it is | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|
| Excalibur | The flagship. Sharp case lines, often with a skeleton dial and a complication such as a tourbillon. | Buyers who want the full Roger Dubuis look |
| Excalibur Spider | A lighter, sportier take with a skeleton build and modern materials. | Buyers who want a bold sport watch |
| Knights of the Round Table | Limited editions that tell the Arthur story on the dial. | Collectors who like art and story |
The brand also makes the Easy Diver, a more casual dive-style watch that costs far less than the Excalibur range. At the time of writing, our category page lists an Easy Diver (Ref. RDDBSE0256) at $6,660. Stock changes, so check the page for what is live today.
Roger Dubuis vs Richard Mille
Both brands make bold, expensive, design-first watches. The difference is in the feel.
| Roger Dubuis | Richard Mille | |
|---|---|---|
| Look | Gothic, sharp, artistic | Futuristic, curved tonneau case |
| Founded | 1995 | 2001 |
| Materials | Gold, titanium, carbon | Carbon composites, ceramics, exotic alloys |
| Price level | Lower on average | Often far higher |
| Resale | Softer | Stronger and more closely watched |
Choose Roger Dubuis if you like a dramatic look and want to spend less. Choose Richard Mille if you want the sport-tech feel and have a bigger budget.
Roger Dubuis vs Audemars Piguet
This is a bold-versus-classic choice. Audemars Piguet dates to 1875 and is best known for the Royal Oak, a steel sports watch with an octagonal bezel that launched in 1972. Roger Dubuis is the younger, louder brand.
- Pick Audemars Piguet if you want a watch the whole trade respects and that holds value well.
- Pick Roger Dubuis if you want a statement piece and a lower entry price.
If you are weighing an AP, read our guide on how to tell if an Audemars Piguet is real before you buy from anyone.
Are they a good investment?
Treat a Roger Dubuis as a watch you wear, not a stock you hold. Pieces from Rolex, Patek, and AP often keep more of their price. Roger Dubuis models tend to lose more in the first years, then settle. That is bad news for the first owner and good news for you if you buy pre-owned.
Two habits protect your money. Keep every document and the original box. And get the watch valued once you own it. Our guide to watch appraisal for insurance explains how that works.
5 checks before you buy a pre-owned Roger Dubuis
- Confirm the reference and serial number. They should match the papers and the movement. Ask for clear photos of both.
- Look for the Geneva Seal. It should appear on the movement, and it should be cleanly marked.
- Ask for the box and papers. The same rules we cover in our box and papers guide apply to any luxury brand. A full set adds trust and helps resale.
- Get a written condition report. Look for polishing, case wear, and any dial or crystal damage. Skeleton dials can hide dust, so ask about that too.
- Understand the warranty and service. Roger Dubuis service can be costly, so know who will work on the watch. Read our warranty and repair policy and our watch repair service page to see how we handle it.
Buying in Houston
FS Fine Watches is an independent luxury watch dealer in Houston. We are not a Roger Dubuis boutique. Every watch is authenticated by an independent expert and graded for condition, and our prices are posted, so there is no haggling. You can read more about us and our return policy before you decide. Our showroom is at 5444 Westheimer Rd, Suite 1550, Houston, TX 77056, by appointment. If you are still choosing a seller, see our guide to the best Houston watch dealers.
Questions about a specific piece? Contact our team. Ready to move on from a watch you own? You can sell or trade it with us.
FAQ
Are Roger Dubuis watches good quality?
Yes. The brand builds complex Swiss movements and says they carry the Geneva Seal. Condition and service history still matter on any pre-owned piece.
Who owns Roger Dubuis?
Roger Dubuis is part of the Richemont group, which also owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and IWC.
Are Roger Dubuis watches rare?
Many are made in small numbers, and some are limited editions. Rare does not always mean valuable, so check demand before you pay a premium.
Do Roger Dubuis watches hold their value?
Not as well as Rolex or Audemars Piguet. They often sell below retail pre-owned, which can be a good entry point for buyers.
Is Roger Dubuis better than Richard Mille?
Neither is better. Roger Dubuis costs less and looks more gothic. Richard Mille costs more and looks more futuristic.
Can I buy a pre-owned Roger Dubuis in Houston?
Yes. Browse our category page, or book a showroom visit by appointment.
Final verdict
Roger Dubuis is a fine pick if you want a watch with personality and real watchmaking inside. Buy it because you love it, buy it pre-owned to save money, and buy from a seller who shows you proof. That is the safest way to enjoy one.
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